Cool Plaster Texture with Hot Glue & Reusable Molds!

Hi friends! I am a big believer in playing with your art supplies and enjoying the process. Sometimes a project doesn’t come out as good as you would like but there is always something you can learn from it! I think we are afraid to “waste” our supplies so we admire them on a shelf but if you do that for too long you will start to feel badly that you haven’t used the things you bought and that feels wasteful too. Grab those precious supplies and play with them! You either succeed or you learn! I did a bit of both today:)

IMG_20170524_135132

I love knowing how to use the reusable mold making product (win!) so I will be able to cast replicas the next time I find a one-of-a-kind treasure and I adore the faux plaster effect I got by spackling the hot glue! I love that I can give a plaster/stone look to anything I like now! I have to admit I am not crazy about the plant pot I decorated as a whole but the techniques I discovered were worth the play! Watch the video to see it all come together!

You can find the supplies I used  from our sponsor Smart Art!

THE SUPPLIES in the MAY Smart Art Box

  • COMPOSIMOLD ORIGINAL 6OZ-When melted this molding material is 100% reusable. Many casts can be made using the same mold. It is a great material for artists who want to learn and become more involved in sculpting, modeling and mold making without the worry of mistakes or wasting material. This flexible, rubbery thermoplastic is great for small mold parts that require a stiffer mold making material. It is compatible with many different casting materials including clays, plaster, cement, epoxy, polyurethane and many others.
  • COMPOSISTONE 1LBComposiStone is light gray in color, harder than plaster and smoother than cement. Mixes 2 1/2 powder:1 water (by volume), with a 5-10 minute working time. Use ComposiStone for lawn and shelf ornaments, sculptures, craft parts, and other general applications.
  • CRAFTER’S ACRYLIC PAINT BLACK This non-toxic acrylic paint is ideal for simple base coating and craft projects. Designed to brush out smoothly and evenly, it covers in one or two coats and can be intermixed. This fast-drying, permanent paint can be used for general arts and crafts, stenciling, ceramics, school projects, home decorating and decorative painting.
  • DAZZLING METALLICS ACRYLIC COLORS 4- 2OZ BOTTLES Made with finely ground metal flakes, these bright, water-based, non-toxic acrylic colors are ideal for adding metallic accents to most projects. They can be used on wood, canvas, plaster, metal, resins, ceramic bisque, papier-mache, Styrofoam, paper, poster board frames, lamps, vases, figurines, candles, candle holders and fabric. Great for painting, sponging, faux finishing, and adding metallic accents to art, craft and home decor projects.
  • PRINCETON ARTIST BRUSH CO. SELECT ARTISTE BRUSH SET 3PCS Princeton’s Select Artiste mixed-media brush sets feature a variety of assortments of brushes that work well together. Specially designed by artist Willow Wolfe, these high quality, short-handled brushes are made to last. With their robin’s egg blue colored handles, they will be a beautiful addition to your existing brush collection as they go above and beyond basic brush shapes and sizes.
  • PRIMA MARKETING RESIN OWL Use this detailed resin owl to create a mold using the ComposiMold materials. Create many castings to use as a variety of decorations such as charms, ornaments, or mixed media pieces.

**** I did not use the owl mold, I used checkers but you can mold anything you like. I also used hot glue and a plant pot as well as a spatula from the encaustic smart art box.

Need a variation?

It just occurred to me that you could use kraft paper dipped in paper mache paste to cover an object to get the wrinkly plaster texture, let dry completely and paint black as we did with the hot glue texture and then dry brush the metallics. That would be a great solution to get that look on a large surface or if you are working with children and don’t want to use hot glue. The only downside would be drying time and potential warping if you were working on a paper/cardboard surface like a paper mache box of journal cover.

There are so many ways to create! The next time you sit down to craft try not to focus on the end result and just enjoy the process! That is why we create! We could always buy something pretty from the store (probably for less than we spend to make it even) if that is all we wanted but there is something magical in creating something new with our hands and hearts, don’t you think? Til next time happy crafting!

 

 

Last call to save 50% on Essentails Tools and Techniques for Watercolor!

watercolor_course_thumb

Today is the last day to get my watercolor course for $39 (regular $79) and I didn’t want you to miss out:) Price good through 5/31/17.

Advertisements

DIY Paint Drying Rack! {and more resin adventures!}

Happy Monday folks! It looks like today is going to be sunny and hot, a perfect day for the beach…or to play with resin some more…or better yet both! I can make some resin stuff and escape the fumes and the temptation to bother it as it cures LOL! this weekend I used up the last of the big pint can of resin i bought and you know what? I really enjoyed the process of learning about it, so much so in fact I took my 50% off coupon to ACmoore yesterday and bought the even bigger quart can of it LOL! I was going to try the epoxy kind but they were sold out at both craft stores and I was not letting the 50% off coupon go to waste:) I learned something new this weekend about polyester resin, well several things actually but before we get into that I wanted to show you the drying rack I built for holding glazed or painted objects:

DCF 1.0

The photo is self explanatory but basically I took 2 scraps of foam-core and glued them together then inserted sewing pins every 3/4″ or so. I think I might make one with the pins closer together to hold jewelry parts too! Maybe I’ll make a video but you’re pretty bright so I’m sure you get the gist. 😀

EDIT: I decided I wanted a board with the pins closer together for glazing jewelry components so I made a video, enjoy!

Resin Tip #25 Always use Mold Release!

While making my sea glass paper weights above I was impatient and did not prep the soap molds I used with mold release. Now there is a chance that the molds were the wrong kind of plastic but every kind of plastic I have used before have worked (even candy molds!) with mold release. The downside is that you have to plan ahead of time and spray the molds and let them dry, I’m not big on planning  so since I had 2 of that particular soap mold I through caution to the wind…

DCF 1.0

Yep, bad idea.

Resin Tip #26: Use a heat gun to remove the stuck on plastic mold from your resin.

I was not about to let my resin paper weights go in the trash just yet so I cut apart the plastic mold and tried to bread the plastic off, not happening. So I grabbed my heat gun and heated the plastic and peeled it off. By the way I had the door open and 3 fans on during this unwise fume fest. I was able to pull most of the plastic off BUT the was still some bits of plastic stuck to the edges so I began sanding, first with a rough paper to remove the plastic then with a finer sponge to polish it. Please use a dust mask or respirator if you do this. That removed the plastic but let my paperweights dull and lifeless. We can’t have that now can we? so I grabbed my trusty Future Floor Wax with Pledge Shine (which has never seen a floor BTW) and gave them a shiny new glaze. It worked, dried rock hard and quickly! Yay! I needed to glaze all sides so did the bottom first, placed it on my drying rack and glazed the top and sides. After seeing how well that worked I glazed my green jewelry pieces from the other day. It got rid of the slightly tackiness of the ones done in silicone and it made the bits I had to file and smooth on the circle pendants disappear. It made my grimy fingerprints go away too and left shiny goodness in their place! Huh, I wonder how that stuff works on floors?

I also learned that larger pieces cast quicker with polyester resin. It was a dry 75 degree day when I made the paper weights and other items (I made sea glass embedded pendants and charms for earrings) and after pouring I took the molds outside and put them in the sun and covered them with a clear plastic tote. The paperweights were hot in the molds before I even went out and they were cured in a few hours while the pendants were still a bit tacky. The heat is key I think because you have to use 3 times the amount of hardener in the 1/8″ thick items as the 3/4″ items and each layer if resin requires less hardener if you are layering stuff. I also learned that you can color resin with dye reinkers for transparent items or acrylic paint for an opaque look. I have lots of both so that saves me money on specialty colorants!

I hope you found today’s post useful. Even if you never want to try resin after reading my adventure at least you can make a nifty paint drying rack for other projects like Christmas ornaments or tole painting projects.  Well, I am off to the beach today, maybe I can find some more sea glass or other treasures to bring back. Thanks for stopping by and til next time happy crafting!

%d bloggers like this: